Island update - November

A little late, and now 400 miles from Skomer, it's time to sit and write the last island update for the year. We left the island two weeks ago - to the overwintering ducks, the moaning seals, and the whims of the winter weather.

A haul-out of grey seals on North Haven beach

It’s safe to say the autumn did not go quite to plan. At the end of September, we waved off the last visitors and volunteers and said cheerio to island warden Leighton as he set off for a few days’ well earned break. The day before his planned return, a message: ‘Not going too well for me in mid Wales I'm afraid…’ and a picture of a well strapped ankle. Ah. A break, certainly - just not quite the kind we’d envisaged. 

 

So, Leighton was stuck off island stoically waiting for bones to mend. Unfortunately, we had planned the most intensive autumn work programme in five years: coordinating and supporting the total refitting of hostel bathrooms and kitchen; a new kitchen in the hut; and associated gas, plumbing, electrical works and drainage. This along with the usual business of cleaning and closing up the island. Leighton fielded our calls whilst doing battle with the accumulated to-do lists of an island year, Chris Ward and associated crack squad of builders and carpenters were on the case in the hostel, Will was digging trenches, Rob was packing up the accommodation, and seal student Emma and I were scrubbing ovens. All in hand, we thought.

Work underway

Then we all got Covid. 

Emma left on schedule, missing the lurgy by a whisker. Will kept digging, at a slightly slower rate. Rob managed some admin work. I slept for a week.

 

Eventually, we were no longer Team Covid - but with Rob due to set off to Australia on holiday, it was soon time to say hooroo. We dropped Rob off at Martin’s Haven on the 23rd of October. Next stop the outback. Via Kent. 

All at sea

 

And then we were two. Will kept digging! - trenches for electric cables, a soakaway and drainage for the hut, and a section of bank to allow a base for gas bottles. As the nights drew in, it wasn’t an uncommon sight to find him still digging by headtorch. 

 

I worked my way from room to room brandishing a toothbrush and The Pink Stuff cleaning paste and listening to a range of podcasts - from highly educational to very silly. Mattresses were propped up, bedding vacuum packed, fridges disinfected, spiders threatened with severe consequences if web building resumed. 

Carry on digging... 

It was a busy year for mice, and our mouseproofing efforts were the most zealous yet. The wide eyed, endearing wood mice were an industrious destruction squad intent on transforming everything on the island into confetti. The moment we turned our backs, new tooth marks emerged. 

With the quarantine flag lowered, Chris and his team returned to their work on the island. We appreciated not only their hard graft but their humour, silliness and willingness to help and advise on all matters building and carpentry. Somehow, the weather obliged sufficiently to allow visits from the domestic and gas plumbers and electrician Ian. We’re really pleased with what’s been achieved - a first class job. 

Chris & co

On 8th November we had a flying visit from Leighton, Lisa and Sarah - a chance for a coffee and a natter, for Leighton to do his best pirate impression, and for all to see and consider the work done and yet to do.

 

After their departure, with just a week to go, we set to with the final task list. Time for greasing hinges and locking doors, for turning off gas and water, and for storm proofing - whether stowing things inside or tying them down. 

Winter proofing (storm and mouse)

We also had to eat our way through the food in the freezers. Ice cream for breakfast featured, whilst we also learnt that no amount of curry powder can dilute parsnip soup! Some store cupboard efforts were successful - dried milk in a cheese sauce worked well. The eternal bean casserole was not such a success.

 

With short days and long lists, the seal round was usually our best chance of a leg stretch and a chance to enjoy the island. More and more plump weaners filled the beaches, with only the occasional new yellow pup joining them. 

A sleepy weaner

Highlights of the autumn included a group of eight short-eared owls roosting near the farm, the usual winter visitors of redwing and fieldfare, and several yellow-browed warblers and firecrests. Most exciting however was the arrival of mauve stinger jellyfish, at least a hundred thousand of which filled North Haven. The Latin name Pelagia noctiluca roughly translates to the wandering nightlight - through some hasty research we discovered that they glow in the dark when disturbed! That night we set off back to North Haven in the sheeting rain, hoping to catch a glimpse. It took a while to trust our eyes, but - yes - there, where the water met the rock, little lanterns beneath the water, with the light intensifying and then fading away. I don’t know how long we sat and watched the water, but eventually we squelched our way back to the farm, admiring the frogs that dotted the path, and enjoying the odd call from a Manxie. 

Noctiluca!

We left the island on 16th November. Our departure went pretty smoothly - on the steps with all of our belongings at 2pm, at 2:01pm we saw the familiar shape of Wavedancer emerge from behind Rye Rocks, and soon the friendly faces of Lee and Jez, who helped us load the boat with our belongings, fuel cans, recycling boxes and the miscellany of things which needed to be taken off island. A final glance at North Haven - then into the cabin for a natter about mainland life and winter plans. 

 

After a dry, calm morning, the moment we reached Martin’s Haven, the heavens opened. Shuttling boxes to the jetty, we were soon drenched. Typical.

Farewell to Skomer

It wasn’t long though before we were warm, showered, fed and enjoying a brew at the home of kind island friends Sash and Lucy. After which, I promptly fell asleep. 

 

It’s been an odd autumn, but a good one. Our return to the mainland was followed by a succession of island errands interspersed with cups of teas, catch ups, and even the odd snowball fight. The team - currently scattered across four different countries - will spend winter variously holidaying, report writing, and planning for next year. 

 

To all who’ve supported the island this year, thank you. We look forward to seeing you in 2025. 

 

Hwyl fawr!

 

• Ceris, Assistant Warden 

South Haven in the sunshine